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Sarees And Fabrics |
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Cottons are still woven in a myriad of colours and block-printed in
animal and floral motifs in every little alleyway of India. Jewel
toned sarees from the southern temple town of Kanchipuram are an
anachronism in the nifty black-dress culture that's swept all global
capitals. Bengal offers Baluchari silk sarees and crisp cotton ones.
The bridal brocade sarees, sometimes embedded with semi-precious
stones and sparkling gold threaded beads from Varanasi transform well
into the modern apparel sensibility as stoles and scarves. Gold Muga
silks from Assam are terrific yardage for dresses, as are the vibrant
raw silks from Mysore. Illkal sarees from Karnataka and the
Narayanpet textiles from Andhra Pradesh are also much sought-after.
Gadwal and Wanaparti produce materials of thick cotton, mostly in
checks with a contrasting silk border. Nander is famous for its fine
quality cottons sarees richly worked in sold thread with silk border.
Venkatagiri manufactures sarees of the Jamdani technique with stylized
motifs woven in half cotton and half gold threads. Bandhani materials
are made using resist-dyeing techniques popularly called Tie and Dye
(internationally this technique is known by its Malay-Indonesian name
'Plangi'). These patterns are commonly seen on long scarves, sarees,
turbans. The prosperous state of Gujarat and the princely land of
Rajasthan have long been famous for the cultivation of cotton and the
use of bright colours obtained through the dyeing process.
The Coromandel Coast of India was historically the source of some
of the most beautifully coloured and delicately worked cotton fabrics.
Here mordents, resists and brushes or pens were traditionally applied
and used to produce exquisite figurative and floral designs. This
Kalamkari cloth of south-east India had been known as "pintado" by the
Portuguese and "Chintz" by the English. Around the mid nineteenth
century, printing blocks were introduced and from then on very little
freehand kalam (pen) drawing was done. Baluchari materials essentially
have a silk base with silk brocaded designs. In spite of a rich
composition, the Baluchar bootidars avoid strong contrasts. The
Baluchari sarees have large floral motifs interspersed with flowering
shrubs. Traditionally, the Muslim community was known to produce
Baluchars with figured patterns depicting court scenes, rider on a
horse, women smoking hookahs and much more. These textiles were
developed mainly in Murshidabad in West Bengal. Brocades or the
kinkhabs have a long history dating back to several centuries.
Varanasi or Benaras is the undisputed centre of India's zari-figured
silk weaving (brocade) industry. Other well-known brocades are Baftas,
Potthans, Kimkhabs, Amrus and Tanchois. Kanchipuram-the silk brocade
sarees of South India are considered very auspicious and are worn on
ceremonial occasions. Today, brocades have a very strong mass market.
Due to the glitter and beauty of this textile, its appeal is
increasing not only in the field of garments but also in accessories
like purses, belts, caps, shoes and cushions.
Ikat is a type of weaving where the warp, weft or both are tie-dyed
before weaving to create designs on the finished fabric. Ikat fabrics
of Gujarat, which involve a sequential binding of sections of yarns,
are well known. Patola, which is also called double ikat, comes from
Andhra Pradesh, Orissa and Gujarat. Ikat textiles of India have the
distinction of being among the most highly priced textiles in the
world. Worn during marriages, they are also used as coverings for
royal elephants and horses or as hangings in temples and for the
adornment of deities. The designs that predominate in Patola textiles
are geometric, floral and figurative motifs. Bright colours like
green, yellow, red and black are commonly used. A saree length takes
two men seven months to complete.
Orissa's style of ikat has a long tradition dating back to the 12th
century. Weavers migrated from the Patan area in Orissa, took the
basic techniques which then developed over time to a unique style of
flowing designs. The resist tying is done finely on two-thread units
giving greater detail and fine curves. These units are tied freehand
without marking out the threads beforehand.
Andhra Pradesh has some of the busiest hand weaving villages
centered around a co-operative producing thousands of meters of ikat
each month. They specialize in warp ikat particularly suitable for
furnishing fabrics made from cotton. Sarees are also produced, with a
never-ending demand as the average middle class woman owns at least
100 sarees.
Jamdanis or the figured muslins are amongst the most exclusive of
Dacca muslins. These muslins had lyrical names like Shabnam (evening
dew), Malmal Khas (muslin reserved for kings) and Abrawan (flowing
water). The base fabric for Jamdanis is unbleached cotton yarn and the
design is woven using bleached cotton yarns so that a light-and-dark
effect is created.
From the south comes the Temple Sari, the Kanjeevaram, from the
town of Kanchipuram. The Kanjeevaram sari was first woven around 400
years ago and since then this vibrantly coloured saree has become one
of India's most popular materials. It is woven mainly in contrasting
colours with silk or gold threads used as borders or motifs. The
colours are normally bright deep colours, and the silk is among the
finest in India.
Gharchola sarees carry tied and dyed patterns. These sarees are
traditionally bought for wedding and they carry a gold thread for the
checks with small golden motifs like a peacock or a lotus in the
centre. The final red colour of the Gharchola saree is traditionally
dyed in Jamnagar because of the special quality of the water there.
Rajkot in Saurashtra is another important centre for the sarees.
Katwa and sujini and kantha are embroideries that use a running
stitch and some satin stitch to turn out a magical array of exquisite
quilts, duvets and running yardage. Embroidered textiles from the
desert dunes of Rajasthan and Gujarat, shimmer with colour in a bid to
make up for the bleak landscape. Mirrors glint, set in satiny colour-tilled
embroideries that adorn houses as talismans as well as making regular
appearances as blouses, huge rich tapestries and lehengas (skirts).
Each handcrafted piece is unique and amazingly well thought out.
Chikan, embroidery from Lucknow that looks like lace, has recently
been revived and looks beautiful on pastel coloured sarees in summer.
India's great tradition of vegetable dyeing is unequalled anywhere
in the world. However, the European development or synthetic dyes in
the mid 19th century ended the export market for colourful textiles as
well as the natural dyes. The technical skills of vegetable dyeing
were lost to all but a minority of textile craftsmen. However, today
there is renewed interest in natural dyeing due to bans being imposed
by Governments, because of health risks from numerous synthetic dyes
developed.
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Woodwork |
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The tradition of wood-carving has existed in India from
ancient times. The early wood-carved temples bear witness to the
craft. Wood-carved temples exist till date in Himachal Pradesh and
Uttar Pradesh. In India, each region has developed its own style of
carving influenced by local traditions and wood varieties. Folk forms
in woodwork include toys, puppets and religious objects and carvings.
North India has a tradition of carved wooden doors with intricate
designs, brass inlay and trellis work for the windows.
Assam, with extensive forests, has a rich tradition of woodwork.
Most places of worship include large carvings of mythical figures like
halt-man, Garuda, Hanuman and lion.
In West Bengal, clay houses have large wooden pillars and beams
with intricate carvings.
In Kashmir, houses are lined with wood, with ceilings in
geometrical patterns and lattice-worked windows made up of pieces of
wood locally known as Pinjara. The State also produces items like
furniture, screens, boxes and bowls, mostly prepared from walnut wood,
which is found in abundance. Decorative wood panels on ceilings and
pillars are called Khatamband.
Ahmedabad in Gujarat is witness to some of the finest ornamental
carvings of balconies in old homes. Sankheda is an important centre
for lacquered furniture. The surface is painted with designs on a
lacquered background. This is used to give a silver-like effect.
Bedposts and cradles and toys for children are also made here. Surat
has a tradition of marquetry work, which is also called Sadeli. The Tanjore dolls of Tamil Nadu, made of wood, form a part of the
rituals in temples that also have carved wooden pillars.
In Andhra Pradesh, Tirupathi's red dolls are sold at the temple
complex.
Kerala has one of the richest traditions in woodcarving. Most
traditional homes have a carved family temple. Kerala wood-carvers
also work wonders on sandalwood and rosewood.
In Punjab, old homes have carved doors and windows. Woodcarving and
inlays are now practiced in Hoshiarpur, Jalandhar specializes in
lacquer-turned furniture. In Uttar Pradesh, Saharanpur is an important centre in woodcarving.
Screens and room-dividers with carved patterns and ivory-inlays with
minute details are produced here.
Manipur is an important centre for Tarkashi, metal thread work,
done in furniture. Karnaraka specializes in sandalwood carving. Large boxes covered
with mythological scenes are an important product of Mysore, Kumta and
Sagar. In South Kanada, life-size wood carving of Buddha figures is
done. Mysore has an intricate form of ivory-inlay on wood that can be
seen on the ceilings and doors of the Mysore Palace.
In Orissa, the main deity of the famed Puri temple, Lord Jagannath
is reproduced in wood. A number of wooden masks are also made for the
traditional Sahi Jatra.
Nagaland has a tradition of manufacturing statues as well as
commemorative pillars in wood.
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Stone Carving |
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The art of stone carving developed in India, a little later than wood
carving. From ornate inlay with onyx black marble to the finely
latticed soapstone, the appeal of the stone has been eternal. Both
Hindu and Muslim rulers of India patronized this art. The craft in
Uttar Pradesh reached artistic heights of excellence during the Mughal
period when the Taj Mahal was created. The craftsman's mastery over
stone is best discovered in the architecture and sculptures found in
Khajuraho temples. The intricate carvings found at Sanchi are amongst
the finest found anywhere in the world. Bodh Gaya, a pilgrim site for
the Buddhists also has an ancient tradition of stone carving.
Nothing epitomizes best the ethos of Varanasi and Agra than their
stone carvings. From intricate architectural masterpieces, perfectly
chiselled stoneware to table-tops with inlay work, every item is a
piece of exclusive artwork. For centuries, Mathura and Varanasi
remained at the centre stage of development.
In the 3rd century B.C. the imperial court of Ashoka provided a
great boost to the art of stone carving. The stupas and cave temples
of this period are perhaps the earliest surviving stone structures.
The red sandstone of Chunar has been lavishly used in the stone
sculptures which were found in excavations of Mathura and Agra areas
dating back to the Mauryan era.
Ancient carvers were guided by the Shilpa Shastra, which clearly
laid the rules for them. The main deity was carved by specialists who
were knowledgeable in the properties of different stones, their gram,
as well as their proportion needed for the carving.
Carving the deity was considered an act of worship and a sacred
ritual. Stone temples are built even today and the Sthapathis of Tamil
Nadu as well as the Somapuras of Gujarat and Rajasthan are in good
demand throughout the country.
Agra is famous for its marble stone works. Many pieces like lattice
windows, mirror frames, carved brackets, canopies, pendants and
filigree works are carved here. The craftsmen are known for their
inlay works. Rajasthan maintains a rich tradition of stone carving
even in the common domestic buildings. Door frames are commonly built
of red Stones. Windows have stone trellis works and even the
supporting frame for the loom is made of carved stones. Jaipur is one
of the most important centres where a large community of stone carvers
carve deities in marble.
In Orissa, soft stones are used for carving small souvenir items,
meant for sale to the tourists. Mahabalipuram in Tamil Nadu has hard
granite stone carvings. There is also a school for training the
Sthapathis according to the rules of the Shilpa Shastras. In
Karnataka, Devanahalli a village near Mysore produces carved figures
in relief on black stone. The figures appear to have movement and
strength in their postures. The figures nor only have the effect of
light and shade and a rounded form but also a linear quality. Durgi,
in Andhra Pradesh is another stone carving centre where large nandis,
bulls, and local deity images are carved.
Ivory carving is one of the most ancient crafts of India. Ivory is
a precious material and a difficult one to carve. The important
centres for ivory carving were Trivandrum in Kerala, Mysore and
Bangalore in Karnataka, Delhi, Jaipur and Jodhpur in Rajasthan,
Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh, Amritsar in Punjab, Benrampore in West
Bengal and Ganjam and Puri in Orissa. Of late this craft is dying as
the Indian Government has banned elephant poaching and ivory-work.
Hence the carvers are turning onto other crafts, in particular, bone
carving. The tribals are usually associated with this craft. The
Himalayan tribals practice this craft for making ritual items. In
Orissa, bone carvings of animal figures are common.
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Terracotta |
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Terracotta is another expression of Indian art presented through clay.
Pottery and earthenware are distinctly utilitarian and often
decorative while porcelain and studio pottery belong to the realm of
art.
Terracotta is also used for offerings to the numerous Gods in the
Hindu pantheon. Hence, each region has a distinct design, content and
body. Bengal has the largest array of the finest specimens of temple
terracotta panels. Even in South India, numerous offerings of
terracotta horses and elephants are made to a deity called Aiyanar who
is believed to ride them.
There is usually an intriguing symbolism in the size and form of
each. For instance while the horse is big, the rider by comparison is
small. The explanation is that, the horse has divine essence, whereas
the rider is only a human representation.
West Bengal has perhaps the best tradition of terracotta. Most of
these figurines have a ritualistic connotation. The Bankura horse is
famous. Heavily decorated, it is made of rich red clay. Some of the
best terracottas are seen in Murshidabad, Birbhum. Jessore, Hooghly
and Dighha. The style is essentially folk and designs are highly
expressive. The use of coloured glazed tiles began after the Muslim
conquest. The tile art called Chini or Kashi became highly refined.
Today, many ceramic centres produce tiles - both glazed and unglazed
terracotta with traditional and modern designs.
Today under the onslaught of modernity, when traditions and
cultures are being eroded and corrupted by the availability of
mass-produced goods. For those who appreciate local crafts, it is
these artefacts of everyday life, like storage containers for rice and
salt, earthenware water jars, cooking pots and incense burners, which
are assuming rich forms. Utilitarian yet unique, such ordinary
articles are as much the result of a folk craft handled down over the
generations as of the collective experience and wisdom of the people.
There are a variety of objects specially produced for restive
occasions, such as lamps for Diwali, toys for Dusshera, pots for
seedlings at Sankranti and colourful kalash (pots) for marriages.
Many products are also used for decoration and make great gifts.
Some of which are ashtrays, flower-vases, tea sets, pottery,
paperweights and decorative animal figures.
Delhi is famous for its 'Blue' pottery that uses an eye-catching
Persian blue dye to colour the clay. Blue pottery is glazed and
high-fired which makes it tougher than the others. Another version,
the Jaipur blue pottery is unique. Some of this pottery is
semi-transparent and generally decorated with animal and bird motifs.
Decorative items such as ashtrays, vases, coasters, small bowls and
boxes for trinkets, are made using Egyptian paste and fired at very
low temperatures.
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Pottery Styles In Use |
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Not readily available outside Bengal, is the Mansa pottery. It
represents the snake goddess and is a quaint, double curved pot with a
face painted on it. Similarly, the Dakshinirai pots, found in the
Sunderbans area, are round with a mouth signifying a crown. Khurja,
in Uttar Pradesh, a three hour drive from Delhi, is also well known
for its inexpensive but tough tableware. Produced on a mass scale,
fired at high temperatures, these pottery items retain their mud
colour and are in great demand.
Rajasthan pottery has certain distinct characteristics. The mouths
of water pots are small, probably to prevent spilling.
Alwar is noted for its paper-thin pottery, known as kagzi (paper)
pottery.
Goa's earthenware has a charm of its own. A wide range of figures
and panels, apart from attractive water and flowerpots, are made here.
Interesting buys are the black pottery and chillum (clay pipe) from
Tamil Nadu. At Kottaikorai in Pondicherry, the slat-glazed pottery has
a texture of orange peel. The painting is done before firing and most
of the items are utilitarian - starting from candle-stands to water
hirers and tableware.
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Cane And Bamboo |
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In India, cane and bamboo have since ancient times been an expression
of tribal art, providing them livelihood. Today the simple forms adorn
the homes of the rich in various forms including elaborate cane
furniture. Utilitarian and decorative items are made from cane in
different styles and motifs, of which baskets and mats are the most
popular. Tripura and Bengal are famous for elegant screens and bamboo
mats, made from split bamboo, finely done. Assam, a state with
abundant raw materials has a large variety of beautiful products like
baskets, mugs for rice beer, hukkas, musical instruments and floor
mats. Neighbouring Arunachal Pradesh excels in cane and bamboo work
too, producing items such as cane belts.
From Tamil Nadu, come the famed kora grass mats.
The most delicate mats are made in Kerala, where black and white
square bamboo boxes are also made in the same tradition, making
excellent gifts.
Cane is the natural endowment of the forest resources in Manipur.
Due to Jhum (Shifting) cultivation rampantly practiced in the hill
areas, cane resources have been dwindling. Bamboo, another forest
resource is abundantly grown in Churachandpur, Jiribam, Tamenglong and
Imphal districts of Manipur, the largest producer of bamboo products
after Tripura in the entire north-east. Some of the bamboo products
are sofa sets, murhas, mats, baskets, trays, chairs, tables, flower
vases, ashtrays and other decorative and utility articles.
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Jingle Jangle |
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Bangles, have over the centuries acquired a cultural, social and
religious significance. This adornment was a purely decorative
accessory until the medieval period. Around this time, the bangle was
transformed from a mere decoration to a symbol of marriage.
In Bengal, the iron kada (bangle) commonly termed loha is worn by
the married woman as a symbol of her marriage. The bride is also given
a beautifully crafted white conch bangle and a red lac bangle.
Ivorv bangles, like the glass ones, are an important item for
brides of some communities. A bride from Punjab is traditionally given
slender ivory choodas (bangles) in white and red. These bangles are
given only in multiples of four. Over the years, the expensive ivory
has been replaced by lac and plastic but the custom continues.
When the Gujarati bride conceives, her sister-in-law gifts her a
silver chain bracelet. In the seventh month she is also asked to wear
a bracelet made of black thread and five kowdis (a kind of shell).
This bracelet is untied only when the woman goes into labour pains to
symbolically help in an easy delivery. A similar ceremony called
Valaikapu, is practiced in south India.
The profession of glass bangle making and selling is mostly
dominated by Muslims. Ferozabad, a town in Uttar Pradesh, is renowned
for its glass bangle manufacturing.
In each region, bangles are made using the materials available
locally, like wood in Kashmir and lac in Rajasthan.
The Ahirs of Rajasthan and Rabaris of Gujarat cover their entire
hand with bangles made of bone. The Lambadis of Andhra Pradesh wear
the graded bone bangles upto their elbows. The Bastar tribe of Madhya
Pradesh wears bangles made of coconut shell. The Gonds and Bhils wear
bangles made out of brass or beads. The Kashmiris have the moat
exquisitel painted papier-mache bangles.
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Experience A Crafts Fair |
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Launched jointly by Delhi Tourism and Transportation Development
Corporation (DTTDC) and New Delhi Municipal Council (NDMC), Dilli Haat
project was conceived with the idea of providing exposure to needy
artisans and craftsmen unexposed to commercial outlets. The complex,
built on six acres of land is located in a commercial centre of South
Delhi. The concept of Dilli Haat is taken from the traditional village
fair with one basic difference. While in the village fair the venue
keeps shifting, in Dilli Haat the craftsmen are mobile and ever
changing, offering a panoramic view of the diversity of Indian
handicrafts and artifacts at one venue.
There are sixty-two stalls selling handicrafts of varied kinds from
all over the country. The stalls are allotted two weeks each on a
rotational basis giving an opportunity to the maximum number of
craftsmen to exhibit and sell their wares. Dilli Haat also offers the
visiting tourist the cuisines and performing arts from different parts
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Crafts Council Of India |
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Crafts Council of India is a registered non-profit voluntary
organisation formed for the preservation of crafts and for a better
quality of life for the craftsperson. CCI is administered by a group
of voluntary workers elected every two years. It is headquartered in
Chennai and has a network of Crafts Councils in ten states. The work
in the field at the grass roots level is done through these councils.
The absence of a council in a particular state does not prevent work
being undertaken there. Its main objectives are to ensure that
crafts sell, quality is maintained, the craftsperson gets a fair price
and that the craftsperson's future generations find it worthwhile to
continue in the field. It ensures that adequate raw material is
supplied to the craftsmen at a regular rate, helps upgrade tools and
technology, works on community building programmes, introduces product
design and helps market the crafts. |
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